Braided Fishing Line For New Angler
With the many new different types of fishing line on the market today, it can be a daunting task to figure out which one is right for you. With so many different lines being made from all sorts of materials and in multiple diameters with coatings ranging from PVC to Fluorocarbon, the choices can be overwhelming.
This article is written for the new angler who needs help in choosing a line to get started with and offers ideas of some of the possibilities available. The new angler will often times just go to their local sporting goods store and buy some line based on price only. After all it's just fishing line, right? Well, not exactly.
To answer this question lets start with a list of what makes up fishing line:
Line Diameter Line Stiffness(s) Knot Strength Stretching Tested Depth Fishing Environment Drag Load Carrying Capacity Coating Material Other Noteworthy Characteristics - Cost Availability Durability Recoil Memory Stretch Memory
To begin with, line diameter is very important and the only thing that will directly contribute to your "Catch Per Hour" (CPH) factor. The larger the line diameter the more resistance it has making it harder for a fish to pull against which causes you to work harder as well. This means less CPH and slower action on your lure or bait. So, line diameter is a trade-off between CPH and Stretch. If you can find a happy medium your results will be greatly enhanced.
Knot Strength refers to how much force the line can withstand before breaking when tied to another object. This is important because you want a strong knot! Think about it, what good is a thin line if it breaks frequently leaving you without any fish.
Fish Tested Depth is another very important factor and should be looked at closely before choosing a particular type of fishing line. The depth to which the line was tested for maximum pressure (which occurs very close to bottom) is what we call "Maximum Depth." This means that for the line to break under pressure it would have to exert enough force to overcome the maximum depth test applied during manufacturing. If your fishing depths are within or closely match the "Maximum Depth" of the line you choose then this line will work just fine for you!
Carrier Capacity refers to how much weight (bait, lure, measuring tool, etc.) can be carried by the line without breaking.
Drag Load is how much pressure your drag system (drag washers, clicker, etc.) can pull against with out failing. If your line breaks while you are fighting a fish then it's Drag Load wasn't high enough to hold up under that pressure. This means you will lose that fish. It's as simple as that!
Coating Material is important as well and some types of line will actually make up some of this category themselves like Fluorocarbon (not to be confused with "Fluoro-Mono" which is Mono made with a Fluorocarbon coating on it for added abrasion resistance). The coating provides additional abrasion resistance, less line memory and can also reduce the overall diameter of the line. This is important because it means you can use a smaller diameter line which has less Drag Load but still has all of the other qualities listed above.
Recoil Memory is how much the line will stretch when under high pressure for extended periods of time. This is not a good thing and can be complicated. If your line stretches too much then the hooks will straighten out thus loosing their effectiveness to hold onto that fish (hook sets). The ability of the line to stretch back into shape under lighter pressure is called Memory Stretch.
Most lines are made from Monofilament because it is the cheapest to manufacture. The downsides of Monofilament are stretch and Memory, both of which we just discussed above.
Fluorocarbon comes in many varieties depending on manufacturing process and additives added during that process. They come in various levels of clarity and transparency making them great for fishing clear water where the fish can easily see the line. They are all essentially "Fluorocarbon" meaning they have a Fluorocarbon coating on them which reduces stretch and Memory, not to mention provides added abrasion resistance making it a great all around choice for a variety of fishing applications.
The next category is Nylon or Braided Fishing Line. There are many varieties and we will touch on a few here. Nylon is the least stretchy and Memory of all line types but it does have some stretch making it more abrasion resistant than Mono because of its added coating material (see above). They come in Monofilament form as well as Braided Fishing line.
Braided Fishing Line is any Nylon line that has been manufactured to produce a round profile and not flat like Monofilament. There are many reasons for this and we won't get into them here but just know that it is used almost exclusively in the Saltwater Fishing Industry because of those reasons. The main reason is because the round shape makes the drag system more efficient and smooth while fighting fish because it does not pile up or stack like flat lines.
The next category is Fluorocarbon fishing line which comes in many varieties, just like above. They come in extra clear, high clarity, low-visibility and fluorocarbon smoke (new product we carry) for example. The main difference is Fluorocarbon comes in Monofilament form as well as Braided Fishing Line.
The final category is Braided fishing line made from a Nylon base wrapped with Spectra Fiber. This gives it some stretch, memory and abrasion resistance while not sacrificing a smooth drag system that a Mono or Fluoro-Mono line would give. The Spectra Fiber gives it more strength than standard Nylon thus making it stronger and an overall better choice for fishing line.
Most of you are probably familiar with the Stren, Trilene and Berkley brands of Fishing Line but what about Maxima, Seaguar Blue Label, Sunline Super FC?? Think about this the next time you are shopping for new line.
This is one of the most important parts of choosing a Fishing rod. The Reel itself should fit your needs and also your budget constraints. There are many different styles, designs and some have even been reproduced by Chinese Companies to the point they are cheap knock-offs made with cheap materials so always buy the original.
Many people new to fishing would buy a spinning reel so they can hold it horizontally and cast with it. These are designed for light fishing applications but if you are thinking about getting into Trolling or Crankbaiting then you will need something very different than what is typical of these reels which only cover depths up to 5-8 feet.
The two main types of Reels are Spinning and Baitcasting (or Casting). Both will do the job but you need to decide which is best for your needs.
Spinning Reels are designed for light fishing applications such as Trout, Bluegill, Crappie etc... They typically come in sizes ranging from 1-4 pounds of line capacity. They are very easy to use because they are mounted horizontally on the Fishing Rod for intuitive action when casting.
Baitcasting Reels are designed primarily for saltwater fishing applications due to their robust design and corrosion resistance (for boats). One notable difference between these two types of reels is that baitcasting reels can be very loud because of the carbon fiber drag materials used. These are not typically the best choice for novice fishermen due to their heavier weight and complexity (many have at least three different speeds/speeds).
One other thing that must be mentioned is Drag quality. If you are fishing in saltwater then it is imperative to have a drag system that is corrosion resistant and smooth. If you are not familiar with drag systems then they work like this: drag pressure can be applied to the line by accelerating your Fishing Rod down, causing the drag system to push out more line. Since it may not be easy for a novice angler to pick up on how much or how little drag is applied then they should start out with something that is smooth like the traditional felt or cork drag system (you can do more research on this by googling it).
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